Munnar to Thekkady in 6 nights: 3 Very Different Kerala Stays
My Wellbeing Trip in Kerala
Nature, tea, An infinity pool and ayurveda
Why I Chose a Wellbeing Trip to Munnar and Thekkady
After spending two months living in Kochi, I was ready to discover a different side of Kerala. I wanted to leave the city behind and experience some of the countryside and landscapes of the Western Ghats.
I only had six days and I wanted it to be a wellbeing-focused break, but I didn’t want to do a retreat this time around.
Wellbeing on this trip meant immersing myself in nature, having time to slow down and choosing places where I could simply enjoy being there.
As a midlife solo traveller with chronic health issues who has to think about energy, mobility and how much I can realistically fit into a day, I was less interested in ticking off a long list of sights and more interested in getting a feel for the landscape and atmosphere of each place.
I wanted nature, good Keralan food and to experience some Ayurveda. So, I chose three very different places to stay, each offering something I was looking for.
The result was a six-day journey through Munnar and Thekkady, with the accommodation becoming an important part of the experience rather than simply somewhere to sleep.
This article isn’t a must see and do of each location because that wasn’t my focus, I just wanted to be immersed in the landscape and place.
My accommodation:
- Tulsi Village Retreat – Kallarukutty
- Blackberry Hills Munnar Nature Resort & Spa – Munnar
- Amritara Shalimar Spice Garden Resort & Spa – Thekkady
Travelling around Kerala – bus or taxi?
My original plan was to do most of the journey by public transport. I liked the idea of travelling more slowly and locally, and I had initially assumed that buses would be the obvious choice.
But with only six days to get from Kochi to Munnar, then to Thekkady and back to Kochi, I soon realised that getting between some of the places would take up a significant amount of time. I wanted to spend my limited time experiencing the places I had chosen rather than waiting for buses or spending long periods travelling between them.
In the end, I used taxis much more than I had originally intended and a tuk-tuk!
I used Kerala Taxis and they were very good, with clear communication, what’s app messages confirming the car and driver and updates on when the car would be arriving.
It wasn’t the option I would have chosen if I had been travelling for longer, and it was more than I wanted to pay, but with such a short trip it made sense. If I were planning the journey again, I’d factor in the distances and transport options much earlier.
A little about Kerala’s Western Ghats
Munnar lies in the Western Ghats, and the landscape was dramatically different from the Kerala I had experienced around Kochi. Instead of the backwaters, busy streets and tropical lowlands, I was suddenly surrounded by hills, forests, tea and spice plantations, valleys and reservoirs.
My three stays gave me three very different ways of experiencing this landscape.
Note on Accessibility: Because I travel with changing energy and balance issues, I also paid attention to how easy it was to move around each property — something I’ll mention where relevant below.
First stop: Tulsi Village Retreat
Where: Kallarukutty, 28 km from Munnar
Price: Budget
Number of nights: 2
Why I chose Tulsi Village Retreat
The thing that attracted me to Tulsi Village Retreat when I was looking for somewhere to stay was the combination of individual cabins, nature and beautiful views. I liked the idea of having my own space surrounded by greenery rather than staying in a conventional hotel.
My private ‘cocoon cabin’ and the view
My cosy arc shaped wooden cabin had a dramatic panoramic view over the Kallarukutty dam valley. It was magnificent.
I walked straight onto the large wooden balcony, felt my breath deepen, my mind quieten and the outside world drop away.
Complete peace and calm.
The cabins at Tulsi Village Retreat are well spaced out, so your nearest neighbour is quite a distance away, giving the feeling that it really is just you cocooned in nature.
The cabin itself was basic but comfy, cute and clean, with wooden features and simple decoration. The balcony was what made it so special. In my short stay it became my place to practise yoga, meditate or simply sit and look out over the landscape sipping chai.
The Grounds at Tulsi Village Retreat
The grounds were lush with plants, flowers and trees. Most of what I heard was birdsong, broken by the sound of rain at times. I didn’t need to go anywhere to find peace; it was right outside my door.
Accessibility: The retreat is set on a hilly, natural site with uneven, rocky and sometimes slippery paths, so getting around may be challenging for anyone with mobility or balance difficulties. I had to watch my step carefully.
Things to do around Tulsi Village Retreat
Well, I didn’t actually do anything, apart from a very short walk into the village where the accommodation is located! I was perfectly happy staying at Tulsi, making the most of my balcony.
If you do want to explore, the Tulsi Village can arrange trips and experiences. These include spice garden tours, cooking classes and jeep safaris. You can aso get into Munnar relatively easily by tuk-tuk or taxi, but I probably wouldn’t make this a base to explore Munnar from as it’s a bit of a trek (28 km) and there’s plenty of closer hotels in Munnar.
For me, the whole point of choosing Tulsi Village Retreat was that I didn’t feel I needed to go anywhere. It was one of those places where I could simply be.
The wellbeing appeal of Tulsi Village Retreat
The wellbeing appeal of Tulsi Village Retreat is being immersed in nature without having to do anything. I could sit with the view and simply let the surroundings do the rest.
I remember telling a friend that I felt as though my brain had switched off after a few hours of being there. That was exactly what I needed.
âžœDiscover Tulsi Village Retreat here.
Tuk-Tuk Ride Through Munnar’s Tea Plantations– an experience in itself
Sometimes the journey is part of the experience, and the tuk-tuk ride to Munnar was certainly that.
I loved it!
From Tulsi Village Retreat, I travelled on to Munnar by tuk-tuk. The hotel booked the tuk-tuk for me. It was only around 28 kilometres, so it felt like a manageable distance — but I had no idea what a journey it was going to be.
The narrow country roads wound through the landscape before merging onto the main road into Munnar, gradually climbing higher and higher. As we rose, the scenery changed from lush forest to blanket after blanket of vivid green tea plantations, stretching across the hills.
Absolutely gorgeous!
I have seen tea plantations many times before in Sri Lanka, but I’m always mesmerised by them.
I love travelling by tuk-tuk. There’s a feeling of connection between you and your surroundings and you can physically feel the changes in landscape. As we climbed higher, I could feel the damp air and coolness on my bare arms. Refreshing, after so many months of intense summer heat in Kochi.
We passed chai and snack sellers, stalls piled with watermelons and coconuts, and groups of tea plantation workers either finishing their day or still out picking in the fields.
As we got closer to Munnar, the tourist side began to appear, with ziplines and other adventure activities alongside the tea plantations. It was a stark contrast to the everyday life of the hills.
It was one of those journeys where the journey itself became part of the experience.
I know tuk-tuks aren’t always the most comfortable way to travel, particularly in a busy city, but in the countryside I love them. You’re not sealed away from the landscape; you’re right there in it. And on this journey, that made all the difference.
Blackberry Hills Munnar Nature Resort & Spa
Where is it: a few km outside Munnar, in a quiet mountainside setting.
Price: Moderate
Number of nights: 2
Why I chose Blackberry Hills
What initially attracted me to Blackberry Hills were the images of its infinity pool overlooking the tea plantations. I also wanted to experience the tea-covered landscape.
My room and the view
My room was large and spacious, with a separate living area and bedroom , with a balcony overlooking the tea plantations. I loved sitting out there, taking in the view and watching the landscape change throughout the day.
One of the most memorable moments was the mist that arrived most afternoons at around 4pm, gradually enveloping the tea plantations, then the trees and finally the whole hotel in a white veil. Guests were told to make sure their windows were closed to stop the mist from entering.
It felt surreal, almost magical — as though Mother Nature was gently enveloping the landscape, clearing everything from view for a while, before eventually lifting again.
What I loved
The Blackberry Hills infinity swimming pool was definitely a highlight, just gorgeous. Apparently, it’s considered one of the best in the area and I could understand why. With tea stretching out beyond it, it was a beautiful spot.
I loved the restaurant, where I had some really delicious food during my stay. Breakfast was particularly impressive, with a huge buffet offering a huge choice. I didn’t feel the need to eat anywhere else.
After dinner, a fire was lit next to the pool, and it was so welcome in the freshness of the evening air. Sitting beside it was both warming and grounding. There’s nothing like a fire for feeling in touch with nature and yourself. Sitting there, alone with my thoughts, I reflected on my journey and hugged myself inwardly for giving it to myself.
The staff were another highlight. They were friendly, welcoming and very helpful throughout my stay, which made the whole experience feel relaxed and easy which as a solo traveller is always important.
Accessibility: Blackberry Hills is built into a steep mountainside, with some hilly and slippery areas. There is a buggy service between reception, the restaurant and the accommodation, which makes getting around easier, but I found the pathways to accommodation slippery given the damp weather (and abundance of black berries falling to the floor from overhanging trees).
The wellbeing appeal of Blackberry Hills
The combination of the mountain setting with tea plantation views, a comfortable room, a fabulous restaurant, a beautiful infinity pool and small touches such as a fire pit.
âžœDiscover Blackberry Hills here.
A few things I did in Munnar
Of course, I couldn’t come to Munnar without visiting a tea plantation.
I visited Lockhart Tea Factory, where I joined a guided tour of the tea-making process and learnt more about how the leaves are processed. I found it genuinely interesting, but one of the things I enjoyed most was simply the smell of the tea as we moved through the factory. There was something lovely about being surrounded by that familiar but very distinctive aroma in the place where it all begins.
I also visited the Botanical Garden, which was beautiful and made for a much gentler outing. Although it was still very hilly, as is much of Munnar, the slopes felt more manageable and the pathways were mostly concrete.
I didn’t try to cram lots of sightseeing into my time in Munnar. Part of the reason for coming on this trip was to enjoy the places where I was staying, so these were enough for me.
Other things to do in Munnar
Of course, there are plenty of other ways to experience Munnar. I’ve included some tours and experiences below that you may like:
Gentler experiences
- Munnar: Tea Trail, Tea Factory and Tea Tasting Tour
- Kerela Traditional Village Cooking Class
- Botanical Garden
- Munnar Letchmi Hills village Tour
More active experiences
- Munnar Half Day Guided Trek
- Munnar mountain hiking (Full day)
- ziplining
- Munnar: Anakulam Jeep Safari with Waterfalls and Elephants
From Munnar to Thekkady
From Munnar, I continued on to Thekkady. Thekkady is known for its forests, wildlife and spice plantations, particularly cardamom and pepper.
As my taxi made its way down from Munnar, the tea plantations gradually gave way to cardamom and other spices. It was fascinating to see the landscape changing so noticeably, and with the abundance of medicinal plants and herbs grown in the region, it was easy to understand why Ayurveda is such an important part of Kerala’s culture.
Thekkady offers plenty of opportunities to experience Kerala’s long-standing Ayurvedic tradition, and I was looking forward to finally having the Ayurveda treatment I’d been hoping to fit into the trip.
Amritara Shalimar Spice Garden Resort & Spa
Where: Thekkady
Price: Moderate
Number of nights: 2
My final stop was Amritara Shalimar Spice Garden Resort & Spa, and it was a very different style of hotel from the other two.
Instead of individual cabins overlooking a dam or rooms surrounded by tea plantations, the accommodation consisted of little thatched huts set on terraces among the greenery.
Once again, I was immersed in nature, which I realise had become something of a theme of this trip! But this time, I didn’t have an expansive scenic view. Instead, I looked out onto trees and spices, with the sights and sounds of nature all around me — from the intense chorus of evening cicadas to a wild giant squirrel that gave me an entertaining show.
The main reception area had a beautiful lounge where guests could sit and relax, with chess and other games available. It was the sort of space that encouraged you to slow down rather than rush off somewhere else.
Accessibility: The resort is set on a hillside, so there are some inclines and steps to negotiate. However, I found it more manageable than the other two properties I stayed at as the incline was gentle. The pathways were clearly defined and during my stay, I didn’t find them slippery or difficult to navigate.
The Ayurveda treatment at Amritara
What I particularly loved about this stay at Amritara Shalimar Spice Garden was the Ayurveda treatment.
I’ve had quite a few treatments in different places over the years, and this was genuinely one of the best. I had a two-hour treatment that included Shirodhara, a head massage, a full-body massage and a steam bath.
The therapist was clearly very experienced, but what made the treatment particularly special was the way she approached it. She was incredibly caring and attentive, and I felt completely at ease in her hands.
I’ve always felt that a really good therapist brings something more than technique to a treatment. Their nature, presence and energy can make a real difference. You can receive an excellent treatment technically, but if something is missing in the person giving it, the experience can feel quite different.
Here, I felt completely cared for.
The temperature was cooler during my stay, so my therapist made sure I stayed warm with a heater. There was also a log fire in the treatment room, which must be particularly lovely when it is lit.
Even the steam treatment felt connected to the surroundings. The steam room overlooked a small, leafy courtyard, so as I sat there, I could feel the freshness of the greenery outside.
After six days of travelling through Kerala’s hills, tea plantations, forests and spice-growing country, this felt like the perfect way to finish the journey.
For me, this final stay wasn’t really about seeing or doing more. It was about being cared for, slowing right down and allowing my body to fully let go.
The wellbeing appeal of Amritara Shalimar Spice Garden Resort
For me, this final stay was about feeling cared for. The thatched hut among the greenery, the welcoming lounge, and a treatment where I could completely let go.
âžœDiscover Amritara Shalimar Spice Garden Resort
Other things to do in Thekkady
During my stay, I just enjoyed the hotel rather than venturing out to do some sightseeing; however, there is much to do in the area.
Thekkady is very different from Munnar, with its forests, wildlife and spice plantations. If you have more time than me, there are plenty of ways to experience the area. You can visit a spice plantation, take a boat trip on Periyar Lake, explore the Periyar forests or watch a Kathakali or Kalaripayattu performance. The reception at Amritara Shalimar will help you arrange these.
There are also guided nature walks, trekking and other outdoor activities if you want to explore more of the area.
Getting around in Munnar & Thekkady
Getting around in each of the areas to see different attractions is easy with a tuk tuk. The hotel will organise one for you. For instance, when I went to the tea factory and botanical garden in Munnar, the tuk tuk driver took me to each place and waited in-between.
How accessible were these three stays?
I found these stays manageable, but only because I took my time. I paced myself and went slowly on the slopes and slippery sections. All three are hillside properties, so if you have serious mobility difficulties, I wouldn’t recommend them.
The most challenging for me was Tulsi Village Retreat, with its uneven, rocky and sometimes slippery paths. BlackBerry Hills has a buggy service, though I still found the paths to the rooms slippery in the damp weather. Amritara was the most manageable but still with slopes.
Six days, three very different stays
Looking back, I’m glad I didn’t try to pack too much into these six days. The three places gave me very different experiences of Kerala’s Western Ghats: the peaceful dam views and privacy of Tulsi, the swimming pool overlooking the tea-covered slopes of Blackberry Hills and the more tropical surroundings of Thekkady in which to indulge in some ayurveda.
A wellbeing break doesn’t have to involve a retreat. Sometimes it’s a beautiful view from a balcony, a journey through the countryside, good food, time in nature or a treatment that allows you to completely switch off.
Is six days enough for Munnar and Thekkady?
Yes, six days is enough to get a taste of both Munnar and Thekkady, particularly if you’re happy to focus on a few carefully chosen places rather than trying to see everything.
But if I were planning the trip again, I’d probably allow more time.
It’s so easy to look at a map, or ask ChatGPT to map out a journey, and think that the distances between places look perfectly reasonable. On paper, the route from Kochi to Munnar and then on to Thekkady didn’t seem excessive.
The reality was a little different and didn’t account for the winding steep roads which add considerable time to a journey.
Although the distances themselves were manageable, I realised that I would have preferred to spend less time travelling and more time in each location. When you only have six days, even a few hours on the road can make a difference to how much time you actually have to settle into a place and enjoy it.
So, if you have longer, I’d resist the temptation to simply add more destinations. I’d give yourself more time in each place instead.
That said, I still had a great trip. The variety of the three stays was part of what made it memorable, and I experienced far more of Kerala’s countryside than I would have done by staying in one location.
Practical notes from my trip
Route: Kochi to Tulsi Village Retreat (2 nights), then BlackBerry Hills (2 nights), then Amritara Shalimar Spice Garden Resort & Spa (2 nights), then back to Kochi.
Getting around: I used taxis booked through Kerala Taxis for the longer journeys, and a tuk-tuk in Munnar.
Weather: I travelled in May, at the start of the monsoon. It was cool and damp in the hills, with rain and a mist that rolled in most afternoons around 4pm, a welcome change from Kochi’s summer heat. I only saw the region at this time of year, so check seasonal conditions before you book.
What I was glad I packed:
- Waterproofs. I definitely needed them.
- Merino wool clothing. I’d particularly recommend it and honestly they were such an asset on this trip. Because of the damp conditions, I found that my regular clothes held onto the moisture and felt cold to put on (especially in Munnar), but my merino trousers, tee-shirt, hoodie, socks and knickers felt lovely and snug! I am total convert to merino wool clothes for travelling in both hot and cold weather.
Popular India Posts
Kochi Solo Travel for Women: A Guide for Midlife Travellers
Slow & Cultural Women-Only Tours in India with SheFarer
Visiting Rishikesh as a Midlife Woman with Chronic Illness: A Realistic Guide
10-Day Pranayama Retreat in Rishikesh, India – Review of Yoganga Healing
Nirvana Naturopathy & Ayurveda Retreat and Hospital (Near Mumbai): My Honest Review
The Best Exotic Marigold Retreat – A Midlife Women’s Wellness Retreat in Rajasthan, India
Slow & Cultural Women-Only Tours in India with SheFarer
Ashiyana Yoga Retreat Goa Review: A Midlife Woman’s Experience of Rest, Yoga & Slow Living
Wellbeing Places
Explore all Wellbeing Place Guides
Gentle & Chronic Illness Solo Travel guides
Solo Travel to Morocco with a Chronic Illness: A Midlife Woman’s Guide
Solo Travel to Penang: A Safe, Affordable Island for Midlife Women with Chronic Illness
Travelling Solo with Functional Neurological Disorder (FND): From Fear to Freedom
Solo Travel with Chronic Illness: How to Reclaim Yourself at Midlife
The Unexpected Benefits of Travelling Solo with a Chronic Health Condition
Join the Orchids to Olives monthly newsletter for gentle travel inspiration
For restorative destinations and thoughtful solo travel ideas if you’re navigating low energy, recovery, or chronic illness.