Happy Stones

a sanctuary of natural beauty

Have you ever gone somewhere on a whim, and then discovered it to be exactly where you needed to be?

Happy Stones felt like a gift from the universe.

Happy Stones, situated close to Beragala, in Sri Lanka’s majestic hill country is a sanctuary of natural beauty, perfect for exploring the surrounding area.

Located 2710 ft above sea level, with sublime panoramic views over the hills, valleys and lakes of Horton Plains National Park, Happy Stones gives the feeling like you’re on top of the world.

Magnificent, breath-taking, awe inspiring, are words that come to mind – the landscape of poets and artists. And I promise you I’m not exaggerating one little bit.

The view from Happy Stones Moonlight Cottage — The view from Happy Stone’s Moonlight Cottage

A serendipitous discovery

I almost didn’t go to Happy Stones, I was searching for a cheap place to stay near Colombo Airport as I was due to fly back to the UK, but for some reason rather than typing in Colombo, Ella dropped into the search bar and up popped Happy Stones in Bergala. I dismissed it and continued my search for airport hotels.

However, the next day, something stirred in me – maybe it was the cute name, and I retyped in Happy Stones and booked. I had one week left in Sri Lanka and decided to leave the accommodation I’d already paid for in my current location of Galle, and venture up to the Sri Lankan Highlands, before heading to the airport.

As it happened, Happy Stones turned out to be precisely what my heart and soul needed. I was going through an incredibly tough time emotionally and I was struggling to pull myself out of the dark pit I had descended in to.

Happy Stones emerged like a trinket box from the universe, saying here you go Jenny : I’m giving you this perfect location, so you can delve inward and start the process of re-finding yourself. I’m going to give you everything I can think of – sublime views, butterflies of every colour, the flow of waterfalls, bird song, dog friends, an inspirational woman, great food, massages on tap, and even regular monkey acrobats – so knock yourself out lady. Do what you can with this…

So, I did. I ended up postponing my flight and stayed for 6 weeks, immersing myself in nature in a way I never had done before.

Happy Stones Flow Cottage — Flow Cottage

The cottages of Happy Stones

There are three cottages available to rent, their names are Tibet Forest Cottage, Flow and Moonlight. Their individual names reflect their distinct character and personality.

The designs were dreamed up by Chitra, the owner of Happy Stones, whose vision was to create small cottages that blended into the natural environment by taking elements from the landscape and incorporating them into the building design.

Flow features a natural trickling waterfall and combines the contours of bare rock and wood, thus bringing elements of the outside in.

Moonlight has an outdoor bathroom so you can shower under the light of the moon, and an outdoor kitchen.

Happy Stones outdoor kitchen — Moonlight Cottage’s outdoor kitchen

Tibet Forest Cottage is made from rustic wood and the sound of a flowing waterfall can be heard as you sleep at night, and along with the flicker of fireflies that dance in the warm night air and brightly coloured butterflies that flit in through the open windows during the day, Tibet cottage fully immerses you in nature.

All three cottages have large windows with enchanting views, and yet each is very private. The cottages have everything you need for a long stay, including self-catering facilities and super speedy Wi-Fi with a work space.

I began my stay in the Tibet Forest Cottage, which is more secluded than the others and met my need for solitude and then as my emotions flowed, I moved into the aptly named Flow cottage. Here, I still had my privacy, but I could sit on the balcony and watch the comings and goings of staff and chat with Chitra and other visitors. I loved both cottages and each gave me something different to treasure.

A new Happy Stone’s cottage in creation

During my time at Happy Stones, work had begun on another cottage. This was being created to merge into the rocks, to create a cave like feel but I shall have to go back to see the completed version!

I was fascinated to observe the steady but quick construction of this new building, built by hand using traditional techniques and with limited power tools.

Happy Stones Guest House

The cottages are embedded into the landscape heading up a 200 m quiet winding driveway, with cascading waterfalls into shallow pools of crystal clear spring water.

At the top of driveway taking centre stage stands a gorgeous colonial style bungalow with three guest rooms, on a perfectly manicured lawn surrounded by beautiful flowerbeds including roses and sweet-scented jasmine. There’s both an indoor and outdoor kitchen for self-catering.

Chitra

Chitra, the owner of Happy Stones, along with her husband Mark, is one of those inspirational souls led by the heart with a value system rooted in Buddhism. She welcomes guests warmly. She’s down to earth, funny and offers an immensely supportive environment for solo women travellers.

I loved my chats with Chitra, and often during my six week stay I enjoyed a cup of tea or snack in the rustic outdoor kitchen of the main house, sometimes joined by her friends and other guests.

Chitra also showed me how to eat rice and curry properly with my fingers, something I still make a mess of!

I’m sincerely grateful for the warmth she showed me.

Chitra, the owner of Happy Stones cooking — Chitra cooking in the outdoor kitchen

Happy Stones Meals

Happy Stones also provides delicious homecooked meals at an extra cost. They are brought to you, in your cottage so you can eat on your balcony.

The chicken curry is one of the best I’ve tasted in Sri Lanka (and I’ve had a few as I was on my 5^th trip!)

Outdoor kitchen at Happy Stones — The Outdoor Kitchen

Ayurvedic massages & facials

Massages are available at Happy Stones; these are very reasonably priced and superb. I had full body massages and head, neck and shoulder massages.

Actually, I had massages three times a week such was my love for them!

I also had a facial which was wonderful. Aloe vera was picked from the garden to massage into my face, along with other natural ingredients.

The treatments were given in an outdoor covered space with the sounds of birds singing in the background.

Though, during my stay a traditional mud hut was under construction by a stream, with the plan of creating a harmonious space for giving ayurvedic treatments.

Again, I shall have to return to see the final result!

Ayurvedic therapy hut at Happy Stones in construction — Traditional therapy hut in construction

My daily yoga and meditation

My yoga mat travels with me wherever I go, and the Happy Stone’s tranquil landscape provides the ideal environment for daily yoga and meditation. Sometimes, I practiced on my balcony and sometimes at the main house on the veranda.

In the midst of butterflies, birds, dragonflies and verdant natural abundance, I felt my meditation practice deepen and for the first time in my life, I really worked wholeheartedly on trying to maintain present moment awareness. In fact, I would say I dedicated myself, like someone dedicates themselves to an art project – passionately, obsessively and without letting go, such was my determination to find balance in my life. I can honestly say that my time at Happy Stones was the first pebble on my new journey of self-discovery and a way towards the light.

View from the veranda of Happy Stones, Beragala — View from the veranda

Gym

There’s a full gym available at Happy Stones – I didn’t use it, but it’s there!

The Happy Stones dogs

I’m personally not a lover of dogs; however, I did fall in love with the dogs of Happy Stones. Each a rescued puppy from the streets, the dogs, will become your best friend during your stay (if you want them to be). If you go off on a walk, it is highly likely, they will join you! One day I ventured off down into the valley, walking for miles and one of the dogs ‘Puppy’ was by my side the whole way. We hailed a tuk tuk back to the house and returned together.

The day I was leaving Happy Stones, Chitra revealed a new puppy, that had been abandoned by the roadside.

Unfortunately, stray dogs are a huge problem in Sri Lanka. Chitra also raises money for dog sterilisation, in an attempt to reduce the number of strays on the streets.

One of the Happy Stone’s resident dogs!!

Beragala and beyond

Happy Stones is located down a quiet rural road, two miles from the small village of Beregala. Here you can buy groceries. It’s a friendly village and has easy access to other locations via bus or tuk tuk.

Five miles away is the large town of Haputale. This is known for its views of rolling tea plantations and attractions such as Lipton’s Seat, St Adisham’s Hall- Benedict’s Monastery and tea factories. It’s located on the famous Hill Country railway line with daily trains to Ella, Kandy and Colombo.

The area around Beragala is surrounded by natural beauty with incredible waterfalls including Kirawanagama and Diyaluma Falls.

Off the beaten track

The majority of visitors to Sri Lanka flock to Ella (just 30 km away) which is stunning. However, the area around Beregala is significantly less developed and offers a much quieter location from which to explore the surrounding region of the hill country and Hortons Plains National Park.