Molise: Italy’s off the beaten path hidden gem

Have you heard of Molise?

This pocket-sized region of Molise is perhaps one of Italy’s best kept secrets. A hidden diamond, demurely shimmering and quietly charming the very few visitors that dare to wander off Italy’s well-trodden tourist path.

• Molise in a place to slow down and discover an authentic Italian experience.
• Molise is where there is a natural marrying of land, sea, history and food.
• Molise is a place you can stop, feel the warmth of the sun-soaked breeze on your skin, take in magnificent sunsets and fall in love with its natural beauty.

Italy – everyone’s favourite bucket-list destination….

For many of us, Italy is a ‘must go to’ destination. Who doesn’t want to visit the architectural wonders of Rome and Florence, marvel at the Venetian canals, sample the renowned cuisine of Bologna or sunbathe alongside the crystal-clear waters of the Amalfi Coast?

And yet, Italy has so much MORE to offer!!

How do I know?

We bought an old house in desperate need of some love and care, in the pretty hilltop town of Montenero Di Bissacia, Molise. Just 10 km inland from the Adriatic coast. More on this here!

(If the thought of buying a house in Molise excites you – I recommend browsing Abruzzo Rural Property.)

We are slowly learning and taking great pleasure in discovering the region. I say ‘slowly’ because when we are in Italy, we spend most of the time working on the house! However, with each visit we unwrap a new delight and learn something new.

So, I want to share this enchanting location with you.

Here goes…

Fifteen Reasons to Visit Molise:

1. A picture-perfect coastline

Molise has 35 kilometres of golden sandy beaches stretching alongside the tantalising Adriatic ocean. Many of which hold blue flags.

During the summer months you can take your pick between livelier serviced beaches, close to bustling seaside towns; or opt for quieter rugged bays, fringed by pine trees, wild flowers and graced with views of distant olive groves.

The beaches of Molise are much quieter than the more well-known Italian beach resorts, where you can be vying for a towel space in the height of the season. However, that said, beaches here still become very busy, particularly in August, when Italian holidaymakers and locals make the most of their coastline.

Do you have to pay? No.

Italian beaches are famous for their expensive sunbathing spaces. I have to say this is quite a bugbear for me! I can’t quite get my head around paying to loll on the beach?? In the past, I have parted with my well-earned cash and paid a small fortune for a slither of beach in desirable locations such as the Italian Riviera. And, sure I put it down to being part of the holiday cost (partly because finding a spot on a free beach was nigh on impossible!)

However, fortunately, whilst the Molise beaches do become quite busy in summer, there are plenty of free areas and with a lot more privacy.

Also, if you do want to pay for sun loungers the rates are much more reasonable.

2. Dramatic Contrasting Landscapes

Here is a landscape where the blue of the ocean meets undulating olive strewn countryside and proud snow peaked mountains.

The distant Maiella mountains, serene and solitary are an impressive sight, and on clear days can be spotted from many angles including the ocean. What could be more enchanting?

From many towns and villages in Molise, the Maiella mountain range rises in glory in the early morning crisp sunlight and even on the dampest days, when they are fog enshrouded their mysterious peaks are ever-present.

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The countryside is awash with colour throughout the year. In the summer, as the hum of bees and grasshoppers fills the air, the golden fields of sunflowers and corn beckon for a quick photo opportunity. As summer fades into autumn, olive nets are laced under trees to capture their tiny bitter fruits. Even in the winter, greenery perseveres in the way of orange trees, tall speers of cypress, tropical palms and the hardy evergreen olive.

Molise is one of those classic landscapes which makes you understand why painters and artists have long been drawn to Italy.

Am I over romanticising?

Well yes, probably I am. However, what could be more beautiful than having a little romance with the captivating Italian countryside?

And that is precisely why I love this landscape, it’s poetically exquisite. It inspires.

3. Tratturi – ancient trails

Initially, when I kept seeing roadside signs for ‘tratturi’ I thought they were signs for somewhere to eat (maybe something related to truffles). Yes yes, I know! My stomach rules and my Italian is very bad.

But no, tratturi (or trattuturo singular) are an ancient green highway of trails, that shepherds used twice a year to herd their sheep from the southern plains of Puglia to the cooler mountainous northern region of Abruzzo for the summer months.

Today, these, grassy tracks offer an abundant collection of hiking trails stretching from the Adriatic to the Abruzzo mountains. A perfect way to immerse yourself in the Molise landscape.

4. Charming hilltop towns

Inland from the coast, twisting upwards along narrow country lanes Molise’s medieval hilltop towns, merge seamlessly into the hills they occupy. They are a timeless welcome, oozing traditional charm.

Community life is still vibrant and many towns, regardless of their size, have a rich schedule of annual festivals and entertainment. If you’re lucky to be wandering through in the summer it’s likely you’ll come across an eclectic mix of food festivals, summer concerts, plays and traditional festas with music and dance.

Small modest towns suddenly become a hive of vibrant social occasions. Evenings are long, and balmy summer nights offer the promise of a late-night gelato sat by the cool rush of a fountain, with the scent of orange blossom in the air.

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On a melancholy note, it’s also a fact that some of Molise’s more rural towns and villages have faced mass depopulation in recent years (as result of lowering birth rates and emigration for jobs) with some small villages becoming very sparsely populated. You may have read about local communes offering houses to buy for as little as a euro! The region is not fuelled by tourism like many areas in Italy. Therefore, by visiting these off the beaten-track towns, enjoying their authentic hospitality you are supporting a local economy at its very roots.

5. Termoli – a smart seaside town

Termoli is a popular seaside town with Italian holidaymakers, though it’s still to be discovered by the rest of the world!

The modern town has a long pedestrianised promenade down to the coast with a vast array of smart restaurants, bars and cafes. This is the perfect location for a spot of languid people watching whilst enjoying your morning cappuccino.

It’s also a great place for a little retail therapy with a range of shops to browse. I’ve become a big fan of L’Erbolario. An Italian natural beauty shop, with a tempting range of aromatic plant-based cosmetics.

Termoli has a lovely, relaxed atmosphere typical of many seaside towns. In the evenings, it’s a chilled-out location for that very ‘Italian’ ritual of la passeggiata (evening stroll) before tucking into a delicious meal.

Termoli is traditionally a fishing port, so fish plays an important role in the town’s history and economy. It’s known for its trabucchi, a unique style of fishing net, which plunges into the Adriatic no matter the weather.

You can also catch the ferry in Termoli to the gorgeous Tremiti Islands.

6. Delicious Seasonal Food

It’s impossible to talk about Italy without mentioning food.

One of the things that I love about Italy, is that each region is fiercely passionate about their own regional dishes, and Molise is no exception.

I am a beginner here, but it is something that I am truly fascinated by and as my journey into understanding this region continues, I hope to learn much more.

The regional specialities include dishes made with home grown olive oil, truffles, homemade pasta and mozzarella and caciocavalla cheese and of course fish.

I am somewhat addicted to the local salami, called ventricina – a lean pork, sweet pepper, red pepper and fennel. It apparently owes it flavour to locally reared pigs and a long aging process. Another firm favourite is pampanella – paprika roasted pork.

And being so close to the sea, fresh fish and seafood rule many menus. A dish associated with Termoli, is ‘Brodetto alla termolese’ (fish soup), prepared with a mixture of locally caught fish.  Delicious.

7. Ancient Ruins

Molise is a young region, it only became its own administrative region separate to Abruzzo in 1963. However, its history is ancient and fascinating.

The region was home to a population of people called the Samnites. Described as strong and independent, they fought long hardy battles with the Romans and held off being dominated until the 3^rd Century.

There are various ancient Samnite ruins, but the most well preserved is on Sacreno Mount in Pietrabbondante at 955 metres above sea level. Here ancient stone temples, theatres and sanctuaries give even the most well-known Roman ruins a run for their money! And yet, hardly anyone has heard of them.

7. Wine!

9. Weather

Italy is NOT hot hot hot all year around, but blue skies and bright sunshine put in very regular appearances throughout the year.

Coming from the UK this is something that I really notice. There is much less grey!

Here’s a brief breakdown:

• May to late September – mostly sunny and warm.
• July & August – temperatures rise, and all that’s needed is the beach, long cool drinks and afternoon siestas. We were enjoying the beach well into September, long after the crowds had diminished. The ocean turns cooler, but personally I think you can’t beat a bracing swim (Scott doesn’t agree).
• Autumn & spring – usually warm, and perfect for hiking, strolls along the beach and making the most of outdoor eating. Torrential downpours do occur, and wow when it rains in Molise – it sure does rain! Biblical style.
• Winter – as winter descends and temperatures drop, snow fall is not uncommon, especially inland. The first time we visited in February, we were greeted by sleet, rain and icy cold temperatures. The sleet did not abate. Nor did the icy temperature. However, in contrast last February, we enjoyed bright sunshine throughout the day and only needed to wear light clothes. So, you never can tell!

10. A Lack of International Tourists

Molise really is off the radar for many international tourists (and many Italians). When we hear a non-Italian voice, it makes our ears prick! Indeed, if I hear an English voice. I’m usually compelled to introduce myself out of pure novelty. Contrast this to the major tourist destinations.

Sure, we all want to visit those popular regions of a country. They are usually popular for a good reason and I’m always excited to visit Rome or Venice. But there is something immensely satisfying about wandering off the tourist trail. Something that makes you feel less of a tourist, ticking off a must-see attraction, and more of a traveller.

11. Easy to Reach

Molise is easy to reach. It maybe off the beaten path, but it’s not off the transport network!

It is served by the Abruzzo International Airport, a train network that runs along the coast and a good bus service that zips across from Rome and other major cities several times a day.

If you’re driving, the main roads are in good condition and you rarely hit a traffic jam, though the tolls on the autostrada can be a little pricy.

Minor roads inland are a little more ‘interesting’, shall we say. Dotted with pot holes and scarred by landslides, taking a trip to some of the more remote hilltop towns is an adventure in itself. It’s not uncommon to curiously surmise that you have driven onto a farm track, only to realise that the narrow bump filled road was indeed a road. If you want to feel that you have truly gone off the tourist beaten path, I’d recommend a drive through the Molise countryside!

12. Local Hospitality

Unlike, the more well-known areas, Molise has not been spoilt by tourists. People are genuinely pleased to see you, friendly and go out of their way to help you. They are proud of where they live, their heritage and community, and happy to tell you about it.

But be warned, don’t expect everyone to speak English like in Rome, because few do. My Italian is pretty non-existent, and my poor brain has to work overtime. However, I see this as a good thing!

13. Take your pick of beautiful neighbouring regions

I’m discussing Molise as though it is a separate continent to the rest of Italy, of course it is not! Apart from a road sign you would not notice the demarcation of regions. I was tempted when writing this post, to wander off and describe places in Abruzzo (just a few kilometres away from our house!), but I decided not to. It would make for a very long post so it’ll be saved for another time….

The neighbouring regions of Abruzzo, Puglia, Campagnia and Lazio are all gorgeous to explore and all within easy reach.

14. Accommodation

There’s a great selection of accommodation to suit all budgets from camping by the coast, small boutique hotels, spa rooms, guest houses, farm stays and plenty of Airbnbs. You’re spoilt for choice!

Do I have any recommendations?

If you fancy a little spa bath treat, Conte Max in Termoli is bliss, has a slight futuristic feel and is opposite the fortified village by the sea.

15. A feeling of good health

I don’t know if it’s the freshness of the air, the sea breeze, the close proximity of the mountains or the seasonal fresh food, but my goodness it’s easy to feel healthy and full of vitality here!

Scott and I usually leave a few pounds trimmer and with a healthy glow.

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