Lessons Learnt Travelling During the Pandemic – Italy
The decision to travel during this era of Covid is without a doubt a personal one and whilst vaccines are on the horizon, we still have a few months yet where any travel plans are likely to be made with trepidation.
This purpose of this post is to share some of my experiences of travelling and staying in accommodation within Italy during the last two months, as the second wave took grip resulting in tight restrictions being enforced within much of the country.
I’ll discuss some of the challenges faced and give a little advice. This wasn’t a post I intended to write, but when I reflected on our experiences they were not without challenge nor loss of money!!
This post relates to Italy, but the advice is generic and applies to any country in the grip of spiralling cases.
Our situation in Italy
For the past three months my partner and I have been staying at our own house in Italy which we are renovating. We have therefore, of course, spent the bulk of our time at the house.
However, we did make three overnight trips, including taking a flight back to the UK from Rome.
The overnight trips were to:
- Rome x2
- Termoli, Molise
- Vasto, Abruzzo (planned but cancelled)
What is the current situation in Italy? National Restrictions and Zones
At the time of writing this post, Italy has generic national restrictions in place and a three-zone system:
- Red – highest risk, total lockdown with no movement in or out of the region
- Orange – medium high risk and no movement between regions
- Yellow – moderate risk – only national restrictions apply
As with many countries, regions can move between the zones swiftly and within days which can have a big impact on accommodation, travel and what you can do.
For the latest updates on zones I’d suggest checking out The Local, Italy.
Booking Accommodation
Positives
- Cost – we’ve had the pleasure of staying in some beautiful accommodation, including a suite at the Palazzo Del Duca Piazza Navona in Rome and Conte Max Rooms in Termoli. These would probably normally be out of our price range, but due to the lack of tourists they were much more affordable. A real treat!
- Sanitation – all the accommodation that we booked was advertised as having additional safety and sanitation measures. Receptionists wore masks and hand gel was provided both on entry and in the rooms.
Negatives
Cancellation issues – for Scott’s 50th birthday, I booked a luxurious and expensive hotel (no reductions here!) in the Abruzzo region at a time when it was in the yellow zone. Unfortunately, the region moved from yellow to red within a matter of weeks, meaning of course that we couldn’t travel to the hotel, despite it being only 8 km from our house. Additionally, because the region turned red on the day we were due to travel, the hotel still charged me the full price for the room.
I contacted the hotel several times, but they have not responded within the last three weeks. I am therefore currently liaising with Booking.com who have contacted the hotel on my behalf. Watch this space!
Airbnb cancellations – on returning to the UK we had an Airbnb booked, but again because Nottingham is in Tier 3 (the highest level of restrictions) following a national lockdown, this was also cancelled. This time though, with a full speedy refund.
Advice: be aware that high risk regions in any country can change quickly and ensure that your hotel cancellation policy is up to the day you arrive.
Travelling: Italy to the UK
We travelled from Molise in Italy (yellow zone) to Nottingham in the UK (tier 3/red zone). Planning our travel arrangements required patience and openness to change.
Booking flights
Initially we planned to travel at the end of November, but all flights from our local airport, Pescara, were cancelled until late December. We thus booked a flight from Rome on the 1st December. This was subsequently cancelled and moved to the 4th and then to the 6th December. Presumably to ensure that all flights are full to capacity (yep – take what you will from that).
Note that when our flight was changed to the 6th, we lost the money we had paid to secure sitting together and had to pay again. Also during this short time frame, the car hire cost in the UK doubled.
Advice: Be open to cancellations and maintain a degree of flexibility in regard to the days you can travel.
Rome Ciampino Airport
Positives
- Social distancing maintained, with frequent announcements
- Body temperature detectors
- Mask wearing is mandatory
- Moving through security and passport control was speedy to say the least.
- Shuttle buses to the aeroplane from the airport allowed for social distancing.
Negatives
- None
Flying with a budget airline – Ryanair
Positives
I’m still thinking…(it was cheap)
Negatives
Whilst frequent announcements reminded passengers to social distance where possible, the flight was as far as I could see pretty much fully booked with no choice on who you can sit next to, in front of or behind.
I found myself sat next to a gentleman who persistently coughed and wiped his brow numerous times (yes really). Interestingly, back in February this year, I had the same such luck! I can only presume, and pray, that this was an existing health condition, as surely no one would board a flight with cold symptoms without being tested first (or am I being naive?) My alarm was exasperated further when he ordered a glass of wine, popped his mask on his forehead and continued to splutter vociferously whilst sipping.
As I said, I can only presume this was an existing condition as the cabin crew did not appear worried and he had made it through the heat scanners at the airport.
Advice: don’t expect to social distance on budget airlines and don’t expect not to be sitting next to someone with a cough.
Airport transfer buses from central Rome
All transfer buses from central Rome to Rome Ciampino were cancelled. This was not something we had expected, so when we turned up in the morning to catch one of the usually very frequent buses there were none. We thankfully shared a taxi with another couple heading to the airport at a cost of 40 euros. (Buses to Fiumicino were running a reduced service.)
Regional Buses
Bus services to and from Rome were dramatically reduced, to just one a day. This resulted in requiring an overnight stay in Rome which was thankfully still in the yellow zone.
On a plus note, all buses that we travelled on were adhering to social distancing, mask wearing, and hand sanitiser was readily available.
Advice: expect airport transfer buses and regional buses to have a reduced or cancelled service.
Making the most of Rome
Rome is a beautiful city to roam, so without the usual throng of tourists, the streets and the outdoor ‘must see’ monuments such as the Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona and the Trevi Fountains are free to take in and enjoy, and whilst attractions such as Roman Forum, the Colosseum and the Pantheon might be closed there’s a lot to be said from taking in these magnificent architectural wonders by viewing them from the exterior.
Be careful when using agencies to book museums!
I have always wanted to visit the Sistine Chapel and Vatican museums, but even prior to Covid I was queue and crowd averse. Therefore, I got it into my head, that this would be the perfect time to visit. I imagined myself peacefully in awe taking in the frescos of Michelangelo all to myself. So, I checked online, and a booking agency stated that only pre-booked tickets were available, which was fine, so I forked out 50 euros for two tickets.
Happy with myself, we took the metro, enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a café just a stones throw away from Vatican City and then made our way to the grand entrance. Where we were kindly informed by security that the Vatican was closed until the 15th January. I insisted we had tickets, but they explained that they had been wrongly sold and I should I ask for a refund.
In hindsight, this was actually my own fault, as I should have checked the actual Vatican Museums’ website which clearly stated that all museums were closed until the 15th January. Furthermore, the Italian national restrictions, regardless of zones, also clearly states that all museums were closed. So, yes, hands up to my own stupidity.
However, despite my lack of research, the agency that I booked the tickets through had still sold me the tickets! Therefore, the moral of the story is that booking agents for tourist attractions may not have the most up to date information relating to closures, so always check the museum’s website.
Have I had a refund? No not, yet. I’m still chasing it.
Shops
The majority of Rome’s small, charming artisan shops were devoid of shoppers so social distancing was easy. Face masks are mandatory and most provide hand sanitizers. I feel this is a time to be supporting small businesses so I’d urge everyone to shop small and local!
Restaurants
Remember to check the current closing time for restaurants, bars and cafes so as not to miss out on an evening meal!
The closing time for all restaurants during our visit, was 6 pm. Therefore, if you want to enjoy one of Italy’s greatest pleasures, eating! Remember to plan accordingly – I’d recommend either a long late lunch or planning to eat at about 4 pm, that way you will have sufficient time to have an unhurried evening meal.
This is big change for Italians, as restaurants do not normally open in the evening until 8 pm. However, despite this, like everywhere people have adapted. The restaurants we visited were delightfully relaxing and with the added benefit of still being able to sit outside despite it being early December, we felt relatively confident that our risk remained low.
At 6pm restaurants and bars emptied promptly without issue, with people graciously milling off in different directions after blowing arrivederci imaginary kisses.
I can’t help but wonder, if the same is true in England where alcohol fuelled selfish behaviour can take over general courteousness (but I’ll not delve into that).
Curfews
After leaving our restaurant, we strolled back, making stops along the way to admire architecture and look in shop windows. We even did that Rome thing, that all lovers in Rome must do (I think it’s a prerequisite) of cuddling up on a bench overlooking the ruins of the Roman forum, before heading back to our hotel for the 10 pm curfew.
Which brings me to curfews – Italy currently has a 10 pm – 5 am curfew.
Advice:
- Avoid booking tourist attractions through an agency, they may not have the most up to date information on closures. Instead visit the attraction’s own website.
- Shop in small shops, they need your money!
- Plan your eating according to the current closing times.
- Check the curfews.
For posts on solo travel:
- Why I love to travel solo and why you might too!
- Are you excited by the prospect of solo travel, but feel reluctant because you are worried about being alone?
- Travelling solo as an Introvert (and why we’re great at it!)
- Travelling and feeling blue