Ella: Sri Lanka’s Hill Country Gem
Ella
A landscape that inspires awe….
After spending some time by the coast, it’s easy to think you’ve seen the best that Sri Lanka has to offer, but you haven’t. Sri Lanka is country of enchanting contrasts and if you asked me where you should go coast or inland, I’d struggle to answer but I’d probably say inland to the hill country.
Here lies a landscape that makes even the most die-hard beach worshipper stop, look and look again. The rolling highlands reveal thick green carpets of verdant tea plantations, lush eucalyptus forests, gushing waterfalls, hilltop towns and some of the best home cooked curry and rice I have ever tasted.
Thankfully, you don’t have to choose as both the coast and hill country are in easy reach on one trip.
Galle to Ella via public transport
There’s one early morning bus direct from Galle Central Bus Stand to Ella, it’s the number 31 to Bandarawela, it’s a little illusive and there are no timetables online as far as I can see, but it does exist. You will need to check the time at Galle bus stand. It takes about 8 hours, but it’s the most direct route if you’re travelling from Galle. There’s a break halfway where you can stretch your legs, take a pee and pick up some refreshments from the small shop or hawkers.
The alternative is to go via Matara and change buses, but personally, I’d recommend the direct route over changing because you’ll be able to dart on the bus and get a seat straight from the off, which is no easy matter in Sri Lanka!
However, don’t make the mistake I made the second time I made this journey!
I smugly thought I was super lucky to grab the front seat parallel to the driver, and whilst this was fine for the first half of the journey edging nicely along the coastal road, it was another matter entirely when ascending the hill country. Having no seat in front of me to wedge my leg against meant that every time the bus lurched and swerved, I almost skidded off my seat!
Also, whilst the views through the front window were incredible, I realised very quickly why Sri Lankan buses have religious icons above the dashboard! As we precariously hurtled around the corners of very narrow roads, with sheer drops to one side and oncoming traffic hurtling towards us with nothing other than the beeping of horns as some kind of safety feature, I also felt, that the icons of Buddha and Shiva were very much needed!
The very important advice here is – don’t choose any front seat – the ones directly behind the driver are for the clergy so you could get booted off by a monk AND don’t choose the seat parallel to the driver, however tempting the view may be.
Arriving in Ella, I took a big deep sigh of relief and let my tummy immediately lead the way to the Down Town Rotti Hut for some much needed yummyliscious kottu rotti replenishment.
Ella Walks
There are two main hikes from the centre of Ella – Little Adams Peak and Ella Rock.
Little Adams Peak
Little Adams Peak is 1141 m high and apart from the last 20 minutes or so which is up hill, it is on the whole a gentle walk suitable for families with young children. The path is well signposted and straightforward to follow, with parts of it leading through a tea estate where it’s common to see tea-pickers hard at work.
A word about taking photographs of tea pickers – photographs of smiling tea pickers often adorn the tourist brochures for Sri Lanka and it’s understandable why visitors want to capture their own images. Yet I think it’s important to remember that the majority of tea pickers are of Tamil origin, brought over from southern India by the British in the 19th century to work on plantations in extremely poor conditions. Unfortunately, still today, conditions remain poor. Tamil plantation families often face a life of social exclusion, exploitation, unhealthy living conditions, dangerous work conditions and grinding poverty, with little opportunity to escape. Therefore, before you take a photograph consider whether you feel it to be appropriate.
On your way up or down, I’d recommend stopping at the 98 Acres Resort and Spa for a refreshment.
This is a luxurious boutique hotel on the 98 acre tea estate complete with helipad and whilst I didn’t dare look at the prices of rooms, it’s a lovely place to stop for a cup of tea and admire the resplendent views.
Solo female travel tip – Little Adams Peak is a popular walk with visitors and thus you meet many people along the way, I’ve walked this on my own and felt perfectly safe.
Ella Rock
The walk to Ella Rock is much more challenging than Little Adams Peak with some serious uphill scrambling, but the views are worth it! It’s not well sign posted, and it’s important to note that sometimes fake signs are in place and local ‘entrepreneurs’ try to mis-direct you in order to tout for business as guides; therefore, it can get a tad confusing!
The first time I attempted the hike I was on my own and I actually gave up and turned back, because I was really confused by the instructions I was given by different people. I then became quite nervous when I found myself in a forest with the men who had directed me suddenly reappearing ahead.
The second time a year later, I was with my son, and we paid attention to the guidance we were given before we left Ella and found the route to be much more straight forward.
This selfie is from the top of Ella Rock.
Clearly my son’s sense of direction is much better than mine, but probably more to the point we stuck to a couple in front of us, who had a guide!
Legit guides are available for hire at many of the guest houses and hotels, thus if you are unsure or alone, this hike might be one of those occasions where it’s worth hiring a guide because you don’t want to miss out on the breath taking vista from Ella Rock. There are now also plenty of bloggers who have written clear directions with photographs of the route up, so these are probably a great starting point.
I’m not going to give you directions myself because that would be foolish given my poor sense of direction!
However, the walk does start at Ella train station and despite the sign warning that ‘walking on the railway is dangerous’, you walk along the track for about 45 minutes, which in itself is tremendously exciting in a childlike naughty kind of way!
Of course, when a train comes by, you stand to one side and wave at the passengers. Don’t worry they don’t come by too fast so you have plenty of room to move!
The walk there and back takes 3-4 hours, depending on how many times you stop to take in the view.
Solo-female tip – I would recommend joining an organised guided group for this walk.
Weather tip – the weather in Ella can change very quickly. One minute you’re walking in sun and the next black clouds descend and you’re in for a drenching. Check the weather forecast before you leave so you can plan accordingly.
The magnificent Ella to Kandy train journey
...and I do not use the word ‘magnificent’ lightly.
This is a journey that has to be experienced to believed. My photos with my mediocre camera do not do it justice at all!
The train ride from Ella to Kandy is without a doubt one of the highlights of this trip and takes about 6 hours. It’s one of those occasions where you don’t need a book or any other distractions, the steady chugging through the awe-inspiring picturesque landscape of rolling emerald tiered tea plantations and forests is a pure joy.
The train journeys up to around 2000 m above sea level and at times the air becomes refreshing cool. As you chug through small hilltop towns you’re greeted by kids who run along the platforms waving and hawkers who sell their homemade curry and cups of hot sweet chai through the open windows.
The first time I took this trip in 2015, I paid on the day at Ella ticket office and easily found a seat. Now it’s advisable to book in advance if you want to reserve a 2nd class seat next to an open window. Personally, I would avoid 1st class as the windows don’t open due to air-conditioning.
You can book at any train station, it doesn’t need to be Ella. I reserved my last ticket at Galle Railway Station a couple of weeks ahead as I knew the route was to be busy in light of the up and coming Esala Perahara festival in Kandy.
Accommodation in Ella
Ella is a village; however, like many places in Sri Lanka, increased popularity means it’s no longer so snoozey village like. The centre of Ella has developed around tourists and lost a little of its charm on the way.
I’d therefore strongly suggest booking accommodation outside of the centre, because one thing is for sure you do not want to miss out on the fantastic morning views. Views are what the hill country is all about!
I’ve stayed at a couple of places in Ella, but my favourite without a doubt was Ella Hide View. This is a family run guest house perched on the side of a hill. I’ve honestly not stayed anywhere else with such awesome views from all angles.
And the food? Seriously scrumptious! Breakfast was ample and delicious, including freshly cut pineapple, curd and roti, and the evening meal was an exquisite example of traditional homemade Sri Lankan food – lots of little pots filled with delectable fresh flavours and skilfully blended spiciness.
Amazing value for money!
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