Slovenia: Ljubljana & Lake Bled – a great budget location & perfect for solo travellers
Be spellbound by the charms of Slovenia
With the omnipresent dragons and a fairy-tale castle looming above the city, Ljubljana, one of Europe’s smallest and greenest cities casts a spell on all who enter.
It has a growing reputation for producing some of Europe’s finest cuisine. As you dine in one of the many restaurants alongside the river, and marvel at the spotless maze of medieval cobbled streets that reveal architectural masterpieces at every turn, it’s easy to be enchanted into thinking that this is an expensive city to spend time in, because quite frankly it feels it!
And yet it isn’t! It’s a great budget city.
What’s more, with the picturesque Lake Bled just over an hour away, this is wonderful location to experience both city and nature in one trip.
I spent 4 nights in Ljubljana on a 3-week solo trip that took me from Prague to Northern Italy, and it’s definitely a place I’ll return to and share with others.
What makes Ljubljana a budget location?
The simple joy of wandering
Ljubljana is a people friendly wandering city. Small and compact, it’s highly walkable.
It’s a city of bicycles, scooters, skateboards and rollerblades.
In 2016 it won the European Green Capital of the year and you can feel it in the air; this city feels clean, and with the River Ljubljanica flowing through the centre a tranquil ambience pervades.
This is a city of blended architectural beauty, with three forms that harmonize uniquely; furnishing Ljubljana with a distinct personality. Distinct, yet reminiscent of other architectural splendours – Venice, Vienna, Prague and ancient Athens. A little pinch here, a little dash there; revealing daubs of ornate baroque, fanciful art nouveau creating a whimsical, playful tone and the individualistic style of Jože Plečnik.
Plečnik’s transformation of Llubljana, is regarded as one of the 20th century’s most important total work of arts. His work, reverent of classical forms depicted in ancient Greece, but modernised with simple clean lines, can be recognised throughout the city.
Wandering and spotting the three styles is a delight, and totally free!
Need a refreshment break? Stop at one of the many coffee shops lining the riverbanks and enjoy the friendly ambience as you watch the world go by. People watch through the shade of your sunglasses. Count how many electric scooters and bicycles you see and revel in the environmental ingenuity; then be perplexed and ponder as to why all cities aren’t like this.
Markets Galore
Ljubljana’s Central Market located in the heart of the city, just across the Triple Bridge and running alongside the river, is perhaps a hint towards the important role that food plays here. In a riot of colour and smells the Central Market should be on the top of everyone’s agenda. Here you get to see and sample Slovenia’s local produce and enjoy intermingling with the locals who view the market not only as a place to shop but to catch up and socialise.
The centrality of the market perhaps gives an insight into why this city feels so at ease with itself, with the rituals of daily life blending effortlessly with the pulsating culture of a vibrant capital city.
Central Market is split into the open-air and covered. The open-air is a typical farmers’ market, with rows upon rows of freshly harvested produce: sweet scented summer fruits, plump peaches, shooting sprigs of herbs, mounds of seasonal vegetables, vine rich tomatoes, hanging globes of garlic and flowers bunched in buckets in sweeping displays.
In contrast, the indoor market is located over two stories under a covered classical colonnade designed by Plečnik. On the lower floor there is a fish market and on the upper a range of shops and places to sample Slovenian food.
The markets are a great place to pick up snacks, taste local produce or pick up tasty bites for a mid-day picnic! Open every day, except Sunday.
More markets:
- Open Kitchen Market – unfortunately, I didn’t visit this market when I was Ljubljana, but I’ve since heard from a friend that this is a great place to enjoy both delicious local and world food, relax and socialise. A must for next time! Open Spring to Autumn, every Friday in Pogcarjev Trg.
- Saturday Art Market – a place for local artists to display and sell their art.
- Sunday Antique and Flea Market – a place to browse and enjoy a leisurely Sunday morning stroll. Situated on the Riverbank, Cankarjeveo Nabrežje, between 8:00 am and 2:00 pm.
The Castle
On a leafy green hill, Ljubljana’s medieval castle towers majestically above the city. Like the city herself, the castle is a mix of architectural styles with most of what remains today dating back to the 16th century following a catastrophic earthquake.
The castle grounds are free to wander and offer a pleasant contrast to the bustling city. There are four signposted walkable routes up to the castle, steep in places, but offering great views of the city below and distant mountains.
Once in the castle grounds you can stroll to your heart’s content; consider a saunter through the vineyards (wine tasting is available) or take a promenade along castle avenue which follows the former city walls.
If you’d prefer not to walk up to the castle there is also a range of public transport, including the funicular from the old town.
I didn’t venture inside the castle because this was a strict budget trip and with the summer sun high in the sky, strolling through the grounds under the dappled shade of trees with an ice-cream was actually more appealing. However, for approximately €13 there are guided tours on offer and access to the viewing towers and museums.
Food…how to eat for less in Ljubljana
This is a foodie city, without a doubt, and it’s a city where dining can be enjoyed in beautiful outdoor surroundings along the banks of the river (weather permitting).
Unsurprisingly, the food in Slovenia is incredibly tasty and fresh, and with influences coming from neighbouring Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia menus are jamboree of mouth-watering flavours.
If you want to eat on a budget, here are a few tips:
- Lunchtime fixed price menus – as is the case in many European countries, fixed priced menus at lunchtime are great value for money and cheaper than evening menus. You can usually choose between 2-3 courses, try traditional and contemporary dishes at a great price – often with a coffee thrown in.
- Pizza is excellent value – neighbours with Italy, the pizzas here are great and also very reasonably priced. Washed down with a local glass of red wine, what could be better?
- Eat at the markets – markets are a great place to pick up snacks, try local specialities such as carniolan sausage, dumplings (little pockets of yumminess) and delicious prekmurje layer cakeis – slabs of pastry, cottage cheese, walnuts, poppy seeds and apples (and if that doesn’t fill you up, what will!).
- World food – I had a great Turkish take-out in Ljubljana! Delicious, generous portions and superb value for money.
Lake Bled
Against a backdrop of lush green forest and the peaking Julian mountains, Lake Bled, with its church topped islet encased by luminescent turquoise water is picture perfect. Pop in the turreted cliff sided castle and it’s not hard to imagine the swish of a wand and being magically transported to your favourite fairy tale.
Perfect as it is, it’s also very popular and rightly so! I want to be here, so why wouldn’t you? Just over an hour away from Ljubljana, it’s a great day trip. However, this does mean that in the peak season it gets very busy. It also means that the cafes and restaurants surrounding the lake are quite pricy; however, if you bring your own picnic Lake Bled is a bargain basement of a day out.
What can you do at Lake Bled for free?
Sunbathing and swimming – during the summer months, Bled is great for sunbathing and swimming. I spent a whole day lazing by the lake, reading and occasionally cooling off in the clear refreshing waters. There are free beach areas, though I found these to be very busy, so I moved around the lake a little to a grassy verge.
There are also various bathing platforms around the lake, with showers and sun loungers which you can pay to use. However, being somewhat averse to paying to swim in lakes I opted for the free version. I have the same aversion to paying on beaches by the ocean which has at times been problematic in Italy where they love to charge for the privilege of sunbathing!
Walking – with a 6 km circumference, Lake Bled is lovely to walk around especially early morning and evening. I did a leisurely lap early evening and it was great.
Hike to Bled Castle (I didn’t! My legs were taking a well-earned break after roaming the streets of Ljubljana).
If you’re not penny pinching, which I was! You can also:
- Take a boat trip to Bled Island and Church of Assumption.
- Enjoy water sports – paddle boarding, rowing and canoeing were just some that I saw.
- Hire bikes to explore the area.
How to get to Lake Bled from Ljubljana:
Bus – from Ljubljana bus station buses run every half an hour in the summer, and every hour in the winter from 6 am – 9 pm. A ticket costs approx. €12 return, and the journey takes just over an hour.
Word of warning – this may seem like a very regular bus service, but remember that Lake Bled is a very popular destination in summer. On my return from Bled in the evening, I waited in an extremely long queue for about 2 hours before I could get on a bus, and when I did, it was the last bus and I only just managed to squeeze in! So, plan accordingly!
Trains also run, but these are less regular and take approx. 1 hour 45, with a change.
Where to stay in Ljubljana…
There’s lot of great budget accommodation in Ljubljana. I stayed at the Hostel DIC in a private room. It wasn’t as ‘cool’ as some hostels I’ve stayed in, but the age range was really varied, which I liked a lot and breakfast was included in the room rate.
What is Ljubljana like as a solo woman traveller?
Ljubljana is known as one of the ‘safest’ cities in Europe and reports of serious crime are low. It of course, goes without saying that as with anywhere, it’s important to have your wits about you and not take any undue risks.
My experience of Ljubljana as a solo woman traveller was very positive. I felt comfortable for the whole of my visit, whether it was wandering the city streets, sunbathing at Lake Bled, eating out in restaurants, or enjoying a glass of wine by the river on my own. I didn’t receive any untoward attention at any time.
Furthermore, during my stay at the Hostel DIC, I met an older American lady and we got chatting over breakfast. She explained that she had been travelling to Slovenia by herself for many years precisely because she felt so safe.
As a vibrant city, with a large student population and international travellers on the rise, this is a city for all ages, families, couples, and solo travellers. It’s relaxed, friendly and very welcoming. I can’t wait to return to show it off to my partner!
