Beyond George Town: hikes & gardens
Beyond George Town, Penang offers an abundance of well trodden hiking trails and refreshing gardens. Perfect for escaping the bustling city and exercising in stunning natural surroundings.
Hikes
Within a stone’s throw of George Town, Penang’s protected forests and coastal regions offer a fantastic array of hiking trails.
Penang National Park
The last stop on the Rapid Penang bus is the National Park. This is the smallest national park in the world, but with the fringes of the jungle grazing long sandy beaches and over 1000 recorded plant species, and wildlife such as black giant squirrels, long-tailed macaques, flying lemurs and monitor lizards this is one very special national park.
Before you enter the park, you must register your name and where you plan to walk to with the administration office. They also ask for your passport number but if you don’t have it you can use you accommodation details. Entrance is free.
As you enter the park there’s a well maintained path which gently meanders alongside the coastline for about ½ km, there’s plenty of picnic tables under the shade of the trees; therefore, if you prefer a gentle stroll this area is perfect for you.
A suspension bridge marks the end of the paved path and two trails emerge, one which leads to Turtle Beach (Pantai Kerachut) and one that leads to Monkey Beach (Pantai Teluk) and Muka Head Lighthouse.
Turtle Beach (Pantai Kerachut)
The trail to turtle beach undulates through beautiful dense rainforest and ends at a tranquil sandy beach and Meromictic Lake.
The trail is clearly sign posted and takes 1-2 hours to complete. In places it’s pretty steep and the use of steps cut into the earth can be hard work even if you’re relatively fit.
At the end of the trail there’s a steep walk down to a suspension bridge which crosses a Meromictic lake to the beach. Having never heard of this type of lake I was quite intrigued and apparently there are only 2 in the world, the other being in Australia.
I learnt that the lake has two layers, one fresh water and one salt water, with both having a different temperature and density. To be honest, it just looked like a normal lake to me, but I expect it must be home to a wide range of wildlife.
There are no cafes/shops on this beach to buy refreshments so you must take water and supplies.
The beach itself is lovely. Wide and long shaded by palms and perfect for collapsing on. Unfortunately, although the ocean is very enticing, you cannot swim here and there are very clear signs stating that the water is dangerous, so you just have to dip your toes in and enjoy the view.
At the end of the beach there’s a small free turtle sanctuary which rescues and protects Green Sea turtles and Olive Ridley turtles. During my visit there was one large poorly turtle being nursed back to health and numerous baby turtles. It was explained that the sanctuary collects the eggs, hatches them and then releases them into the ocean; this protects them against being eaten before they reach the sea.
Solo female traveller tip: I hiked to Turtle Beach on my own and it felt very safe, it’s a well-used trail by both tourists and locals and every few minutes I came across someone. Admittedly it was a Sunday so I don’t know if it’s the same during the week. However, on the whole I’d say if you are a woman alone, this is a great solo hike.
Monkey Beach (Pantai Teluk) and Muka Head Lighthouse
The trail to Monkey Beach is stated as being closed, but apparently this has been the case for quite some time. We could see that others were still using the trail and so felt that as long as we were careful and turned back if need be, we would be okay. An alternative, more sensible option, is to get a boat over from the park entrance and trek to the lighthouse from Monkey Beach.
The jungle trail runs by the ocean, so the gentle lapping of waves provides a cooling soundscape. It also means that monitor lizards are really easy to spot (there are some huge ones)! It takes about an hour to walk/scramble to the beach, but in places the track and bridges are in very poor repair so you do need to take your time and be very careful where you tread (hence why the path is closed!)
Monkey beach was okay, though when we were there was quite a scent of diesel in the air from the boats! Unlike turtle beach, there are a few cafes for refreshments, and you can even ride a horse or rent a jet ski. As for monkeys, yep we saw a few families of long-tailed macaques going about their business.
Solo female traveller tip: I wouldn’t advise doing this trail on your own, or if it’s been raining. I had my son with me who confidently lead the way as though he traverses rainforest routes on a regular basis, and who thankfully held my hand when I was faced with sections of wood missing from dubious looking suspension bridges! Instead you can get a boat over from the park entrance and trek up to Muka Head Lighthouse.
Muka Head Lighthouse from Monkey Beach
After a quick coconut on Monkey beach, and although the sun was beginning to set, my son gently insisted that we climbed up to Muka Head Lighthouse. We checked with some people who had just walked down and they confirmed it was only a 30-minute walk, though they failed to add that it was a very steep uphill 30-minute walk!
It’s safe to say that I was very, very beetroot hot red by the time we reached the lighthouse. Therefore, whilst my son mounted the spiral staircase to the greenhouse like lantern room at the top to peer at the view, I collapsed at the bottom and cooled my burning face on the concrete floor. After some encouragement, I pulled myself up and popped my head into the sun-drenched roasting room, nodded at the view and popped swiftly back down.
Thankfully, after we arrived back down at Monkey beach, we didn’t need to take the jungle route back to the entrance (much to my son’s disappointment). Instead we paid 10 MYR to zip back in a beat up old speedboat.
Penang Hill
With the peak sitting at 830 metres above sea level, Penang Hill, the first colonial hill station can be up to 5 degrees cooler than George Town. There are both roads and a funicular train running up to the summit; however, if you’re feeling fit and healthy, and ready for a challenge, I’d really recommend hiking. Trails take you through luscious protected tropical rainforest, with an abundance of flora and fauna. We absolutely loved this hike and one we’ll not forget
There are a number of different routes starting at various points and when we were looking for directions, they all seemed a little vague, but I noticed when writing this that the Penang Hill website has navigation guides for about 30 different routes! We either missed these or they’re new, but imagine they are well worth using!
Our starting point was Moon Gate, just outside the Botanical Garden. The total distance is about 6 km; however, do not been fooled into thinking this is not far. The route in places is very steep and ropes are sometimes needed to heave yourself up. I sure found my Indiana Jenny on this thigh groaning trek!
You need about 3 hours for the hike and all the advice I read said to start early morning to avoid the mid-day heat, but in true form we got up late and headed into George Town for a big nourishing breakfast at Wheelers, followed by another strength enhancing coffee at Olive Springs before jumping in a taxi; so we didn’t really start until about 11 am and it was very hot! I therefore also recommend an early morning start!!
When you enter the aptly named Moon Gate, you’re transported magically up on a comet …erm nope you’re not. There are two options – straight ahead using steep steps or turn right – we turned right and followed the painted red signs to Hill Station 5. Immediately the route is up, up ,up and vertical in places, but there are tree roots to grasp and ropes for assistance. It’s a serious sweatathon. After about 45 minutes you reach the hill station. Here you can have a rest, make a cup of tea or even work out at the outdoor gym (I gave that a miss).
Leaving the hill station behind, the route is a lot gentler and you walk through beautiful pristine rainforest with some magnificent views. We spotted many monkeys, a giant black squirrel and my son nearly trod on a little snake (we presumed it was a grass snake and it slithered off pretty quick when faced with my sons trainers). There are quite a few trails forking off in different directions and there are no clear signs, but eventually we found ourselves at an abandoned building and a tarmac road which was the landmark we were looking out for.
You then have the option of walking up the road or continuing along the trail, which we did. This was the hardest part of the hike for me, it gets very steep and my legs were seriously aching at this point! However, I was spurred on by the glimpses of colonial style houses in the distance and the thought of a long cool drink.
On reaching the peak – hot, red faced and clothes dripping with sweat, we strolled down the English countryside like road, past little cottages that would not have looked out of place in the Cotswolds and past fresh faced visitors who had opted for the decidedly less sweaty funicular train route. We found the refreshment area and ordered a very big cartoon of freshly cut fruit, which went down like nectar from the gods!
Penang Hill has amazing views and a wide range of tourist attractions including shops, restaurants, hotels and viewing stations. However, for us the delight was definitely in the hike to the top.
Solo female traveller tip – I hiked this with my son and I wouldn’t have felt comfortable on my own; unlike my solo hike to Turtle Beach we hardly met anyone along the route and there were many forks in the path which could result in getting lost. There are lots of organised hikes up Penang Hill, so I would check these out e.g. Airbnb Experiences.
Off the beaten track hikes
George Town is surrounded by plenty of hiking trails that are off the tourist radar but frequently used by locals. After searching google, we found one that began in a residential area. I’m not going to reveal the location because we got the impression locals may prefer that it’s off the tourist radar!
It began innocently enough in the taxi when the driver asked us how we found out about the location and tried to convince us to go to one of the more well-known sites such as Penang Hill. After he dropped us off and we made our way up the trail, we were stopped several times by local hikers curiously asking ‘how did we find out about this place? How did we get there?’ I have to say it was a little strange at first as we just couldn’t understand their curiosity; my imagination was going wild with a whole range of scenarios!
However, after reaching the top, admiring the views and then wandering a little further down the path, we were met by the sound of laughter and chat coming from a small hill station. Small groups were playing cards, chatting and making tea over an open fire. We were warmly invited to sit and rest, given tea, nuts and sweets. Many of the hikers we had met on the way up were there and they explained that they were surprised by our appearance as it’s a spot favoured by locals.
We had such a lovely time and it was a real treat of an afternoon. The moral of the story is get out there and explore, you don’t need to stick to well-trodden tourist routes, there’s a real pleasure in discovering new areas for yourself.
Glorious Gardens
As well as some serious hard core hiking trails that make your local gym seem like child’s play, Penang has some lovely gardens for more leisurely strolls.
Penang Spice Garden
Advertised as a ‘bio-diverse living museum of spices and other tropical plants that have shaped our global history’, Penang spice garden is a charming oasis of tranquillity with enchanting paths leading you past the steady trickle of waterfalls and ponds to hidden green spaces full of botanical surprises. Areas include spice, bamboo, a traditional tea station with water collected from a natural spring and a poison garden, which is a beguiling gallery of plants, science and mythical tales!
What I also loved about the spice garden was the use of recycled structures such as common old front doors and reclaimed wood to create fun and imaginative features, it adds a childlike dreamy quality to the garden which is really special; I imagine that children would absolutely love it.
When I visited, it was virtually empty and I almost had the place to myself which certainly added to the tranquillity; however, just as I was leaving a tour bus full of visitors were entering the gates so I imagine it’s not always so quiet! Perhaps if you see a tour bus parked outside, pop to the beachside café over the road until it’s gone!!
Entry costs 31 MYR, with a complementary squirt of mosquito repellent and audio tour (I didn’t use this as a full immersion into the sounds of the tropics was a pure delight for me and the information labels were great). Open from 9-6pm and situated just 5 minutes past Batu Ferringhi on the Rapid Penang bus it’s easy to find.
Entopia by Penang Butterfly Farm
For some reason I wasn’t that excited about visiting the Butterfly Farm, but once I arrived I was completely mesmerised.
Located in Teluk Bahang, this lush sanctuary is home to over 15,000 butterflies, with various species fluttering freely in a beautiful tropical environment. Visitors can stroll through its expansive outdoor garden, where vibrant butterflies land on flowers and plants, creating a magical atmosphere. I felt very much like I was a character in a fairy tale!
In addition to butterflies, Entopia features other fascinating creatures like insects, reptiles, and amphibians, providing a comprehensive glimpse into the world of wildlife. The farm is divided into two main sections: the Natureland outdoor garden and the Insectarium indoor exhibit, offering both an open-air adventure and educational displays.
One of the highlights is the butterfly release sessions, where guests can watch newly emerged butterflies take flight. The farm also includes interactive exhibits, informative talks, and a cafe, making it a great destination for a relaxing and enriching day out. Whether you’re an animal enthusiast, a photographer, or simply looking to enjoy the beauty of nature, Entopia is a must-visit in Penang for an unforgettable experience.
Botanical Gardens
Penang Botanical Gardens is just the ticket for a leisurely stroll. With free admittance, you can wander around the formal gardens, a jungle track, fern houses and relax by the lily pond. It doesn’t have the same wealth of plants as other Botanical Gardens I’ve been to, such as Kandy, in Sri Lanka but it still makes for a lovely peaceful stroll and it’s free! Also great for monkey watching!
A note about beaches
The most well know beaches in Penang lay between George Town and Batu Ferringhi and whilst there are some nice sandy beaches for relaxing on, it’s not recommended you swim in the sea. It’s murky and full of jelly fish; I can vouch for this after seeing literally hundreds when I was on the ferry over. I believe some areas of the ocean are okay and I know some people do swim, but personally I kept to doing laps in the condominium swimming pool.
If you’re looking for crystal clear waters and a beach holiday, I wouldn’t recommend Penang for this. City and Nature definitely win over the beach here!